Rome doesn’t need Christmas to be beautiful, but December suits it very well. Streets are strung with lights, churches put out their nativity scenes, and the great monuments are usually quieter than in spring and summer.
It’s also a city where Christmas is still a religious festival first and a shopping event second, which gives it a different feel from the markets of northern Europe. Here is how to plan a few days there, and what to sort out first if you need a Schengen visa.
What the weather is like
Winters in Rome are usually milder than in the UK, and you will often get bright, clear days that are good for walking. It can also be rainy, and evenings turn cold, so pack a warm coat, a compact umbrella and comfortable shoes for the cobbled streets.
Christmas traditions worth seeing
Nativity scenes
Italy’s great Christmas tradition is the presepe, or nativity scene, and Rome’s churches are full of them. Many are worth seeing for the craftsmanship alone. Step into any of the big churches in the historic centre during December and you are likely to find one. Santa Maria in Aracoeli, at the top of its long staircase beside the Capitoline Hill, is especially linked with Rome’s Christmas traditions.
St Peter’s Square
A large Christmas tree and a nativity scene usually stand in St Peter’s Square through the season. The square is free to enter, and it’s at its best after dark.
On Christmas Eve the Pope usually celebrates Mass in St Peter’s Basilica, and on Christmas Day at noon he traditionally gives the Urbi et Orbi blessing from the basilica’s central balcony. Places at papal ceremonies inside the basilica need a ticket, which you have to request in advance. Check the official Vatican website for this year’s arrangements, and expect crowds and security checks.
Piazza Navona
Rome’s best-known Christmas market is usually held in Piazza Navona, with stalls, sweets and fairground atmosphere in front of Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers. It’s more about the setting than serious shopping, but children tend to love it. Check dates locally before you plan around it.
La Befana
The season in Italy runs through to Epiphany on 6 January. In Italian tradition, La Befana is a kindly old witch who brings sweets to good children and coal to naughty ones. Rome’s celebrations have long centred on Piazza Navona, so early January is a fun time to visit with a family.
A simple three-day plan
Day 1: Ancient Rome
Start at the Colosseum, then walk through the Roman Forum and up the Palatine Hill. Book timed tickets well ahead. In the afternoon, climb to the Capitoline Hill for the views across the Forum, then walk to Santa Maria in Aracoeli to see the nativity.
Day 2: The Vatican
Give a full morning to the Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel, and book in advance. Afterwards, see St Peter’s Basilica and the square, then walk along the Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo. Check the museums’ calendar first, because they close on some days over the holiday period.
Day 3: The historic centre and Trastevere
Walk between the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps, which are close together and look their best with the Christmas lights on. Via del Corso and the streets around Via dei Condotti are usually well lit in December. Finish the day across the river in Trastevere, a good area for an evening meal.
What to eat
Roman food is simple, filling and ideal for a cold evening. Try these while you are there:
- Cacio e pepe: pasta with pecorino cheese and black pepper.
- Carbonara: the Roman classic, made with egg, cured pork cheek and pecorino.
- Supplì: fried rice balls with melted cheese in the middle.
- Panettone and pandoro: Italy’s traditional Christmas cakes.
- Torrone: nougat, sold at many Christmas stalls.
Christmas Eve dinner in Italy traditionally features fish rather than meat, and many restaurants offer a special menu.
Practical tips for the holidays
Several days around Christmas are public holidays in Italy, including 8 December, 25 and 26 December, 1 January and 6 January. Museums, shops and restaurants may close or change their hours, and public transport can run less often. Book restaurants for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day in advance, and check every opening time on the official website before you go.
Direct flights to Rome leave from many UK airports, and Fiumicino airport has a direct train to Termini station in the city centre. Fares and hotel prices tend to rise around Christmas and New Year, so book early, and choose refundable options if your visa isn’t yet confirmed.
If you have an extra day, Florence and Naples are both within easy reach by high-speed train.
Planning your Italy visa
If you live in the UK on a non-EU passport, you will usually need a Schengen visa for this trip, and for Christmas travel the time to act is now.
- Apply to Italy if it’s your main destination. If you add another country, apply to the one where you will spend the most nights.
- Apply early. You can apply up to 6 months before travel and no later than 15 calendar days before. Decisions usually take 15 calendar days and can take up to 45, and December appointments can be hard to find. Our timing guide explains how to work back from your travel date.
- Check your insurance. You need at least €30,000 of medical cover, valid across the Schengen area.
- Check your passport. It must be valid for at least 3 months after you leave the Schengen area, with 2 blank pages.
- Check your UK status. Your evidence is usually an eVisa share code or valid UK visa.
Travelling with children? Our guide to Schengen visas for children covers the extra documents. Prefer the mountains? See our guide to Christmas markets in Bolzano and beyond.
Ready to plan your trip? See our Italy visa guide, or start your application and we’ll help with your forms and appointment.
